Monday, July 29, 2013

The Road to Cunda

Finally, Alex and I would see each other in Turkey! For the past three weeks, he has been studying at the Ottoman Language summer program on Cunda Island, which is near the coast of Ayvalık in the Aegean Sea. Both places are popular vacation destinations for Turkish people. This would be a long day of traveling—here goes:


·                                              o   7:00am shuttle service from Sabancı to Kadıköy 
o   By 7:15am the shuttle had not appeared, to the consternation of several waiting would-be passengers. One man knew who to talk to and the shuttle people called taxis to take us to Kadıköy, but they sent 2 taxis for 10 people. I was selfish and got in the taxi to go; at least I heard them say they would order another taxi for the two people left behind.
o   Thanks to the hell-bent speed of the taxi driver (I had to close my eyes), we got there in plenty of time. He didn’t really know the exact route to take, but the other two people could give him directions!
o   8:15am shuttle to the Dudullu bus station (no big deal)
o   At the bus station, I asked one of the attendants when the bus to Ayvalık would arrive, and he told me to sit and wait. OK, I waited, and around 9:40 I asked again, but there still was no bus. Finally, he told me to talk to the man at the ticket counter (whom I should have gone to directly!), and because I totally could not understand what he said, he took my ticket, crossed out 9:45am and wrote 10:45am. I stupidly asked “why?” but, of course, I could not understand the reason either. Fine then, I got tea and a snack and waited for the bus some more.
o   Ah, the bus to Ayvalık arrives—happy happy joy joy! I hand over my bag, find my seat, and as the bus fills up, it turns out that someone else has the same seat assignment as I do! Ugh. I must be looking truly pathetic at this point because the bus driver escorts me over to the ticket counter and tells them to fix my seat number. They do, and I am finally on the bus and ready for the next seven hours to Ayvalık! :D 
On the bus, the elderly lady sitting next to me was in the mood to talk; Her name was Şöhret, and her family had dispersed to Australia, Poland, and the U.S., so she seemed pretty lonely. She was on her way to a summer house near Ayvalık. Excepting the “nap” I took, we (I mean she) talked for the whole trip. It was excellent practice for my Turkish, and she patiently corrected me a few times. We talked about family, work, travel, vacations, and painting for fun (and probably many other topics that I didn’t fully understand…)
One interesting part of the journey was the bus ferry across the Mamara Sea. These are immense ferries that load up with intercity busses and private cars. While crossing, passengers can get off the bus and walk around the ferry. I took a couple photos then (see below.)
Hours later, after Şöhret’s stop, I still had another half hour to go. There were tantalizing glimpses of the sea as we approached. I painstakingly texted Alex that the bus was getting close, and he asked me to get a taxi or a dolmuş (a shared mini-bus) to meet him on the waterfront at Ayvalık. I got the taxi and completely mangled my Turkish so that he drove toward the causeway for Cunda, when what I meant was to go to the pier for Cunda on the mainland. I managed to stop him and try to explain, and when he understood the problem, he was mostly patient with me, and in the end he didn’t charge me the whole cost for the out of the way trip. All’s well that ends well, because there was Alex waiting for me! 










Cheap Phones and Flirty Waiters


Of course, Keri and I knew that we needed to get phones, but we wanted the simplest, cheapest ones possible. I also needed to buy bus tickets to visit Alex at Cunda, where he is studying now. We took the shuttle service from Sabancı University to Kadıköy and did some comparison shopping. Generally, electronics are more expensive than in the U.S., but I think we did pretty well. To use the type of phone I got, I need to buy minutes rather than a contract. Text messages are cheaper than talking, but the phone is old enough that it doesn’t have a QWERTY keyboard, I have to tap through all the letters to get something close to what I want to text. Fresh from our success getting the oldest cell phones on the planet, we looked into various ferries we could take across the Bosphorus and still make it back in time for the return shuttle service to Sabancı. We took the ferry to Beşiktaş (only 15 minutes to Europe!) and on the trip over, I discovered that my “new” phone was locked, which meant that I would have to go back to the shop to get that taken care of. In Beşiktaş, we found a café to have lunch. There we encountered the common species known as the flirty waiter. Let’s just say that his attention was slightly ridiculous, and did not result in a better tip at all. Good thing the food was delicious—we enjoyed mevsim salata, cheese and spinach gözleme, and ayran. Then we had just enough time to catch the return ferry to Kadıköy; I went back to the shop and Keri went in search of bakery bread to bring to Tolga and Funda. At the shop, when I tried to explain the problem, the owner joked in Turkish, “Did you get this phone here?”, but I didn’t get that it was a joke at first, I was a little stressed about time for that. He then told me to wait five minutes and took the phone to the back room. At that point, I had 20 minutes before the shuttle left, so I had to make myself believe that it would all work out (rather than split a gasket). Ten minutes later, another guy came out—really looking like they kept him in the basement to hack locked phones—and gave me the phone. I asked if it worked and he said yes, so I headed over to the shuttle stop as fast as I could. Then Keri came with the Ramazan pidesi and all was well--back in time to make yummy mercimek köftesi!




Tuzla Waterfront


Last week Tuesday our friend Keri arrived in Istanbul on her way to do research in Mardin for a few weeks. Funda and I met her at the airport (with Funda driving like a boss in Istanbul traffic!) and later that day, after dinner, we all went to Tuzla to walk along the waterfront. We weren’t the only ones with this idea… During Ramazan, many families break their fast (the iftar meal) with a picnic outside. Of course, in Tuzla, what better place to do that than in the public park on the waterfront? So, we arrived just as the sun set, had a little adventure with parking, and then entered the park that was overflowing with elaborate picnic setups—grills, little stoves for tea, blankets, and pillows. Children were playing and running everywhere, and there were cats—millions and billions and trillions of cats! Ege headed straight for the playground, and was not at all interested in walking along the waterfront, so Keri and I went ahead and made a vague plan to meet Tolga, Funda and Ege on the path a little later. (You can probably guess what happened…) We walked, talked, took some photos and then realized that we hadn’t seen the others yet. So began the “how do you find your friends in the dark when you don’t have a cell phone yet in a place you don’t know at all” part of this story. We went back to the park, we went back to the waterfront path, I stayed on the path and Keri went back to the park, and then… I saw them! Huzzah! In the end, we all had a very nice walk, separately. Finally, it was treat time for Ege, which meant going to Burger King for a milkshake. There, he found the kiddie play area, and firmly made his case for playing there. When we were on the road back home, we made some ambitious plans to make mercimek köftesi that same night, but everyone promptly collapsed into sleep once we got there. 













Monday, July 22, 2013

Exploring Kadıköy

My friends, Tolga and Funda, had to work on Monday, and little Ege went off to preschool. So I decided to be a tourist. Of course, most museums (especially the ones I want to see) are closed on Mondays. In any case, everything is new enough that my plan was just to walk around and see what I could see. To get to Kadıköy from Sabancı University, I took the student shuttle bus which runs every few hours and takes about an hour one way. Since I don't have a Sabancı ID, I needed to tell the shuttle bus driver that I'm a guest. Now, for everyone else, this shuttle kind of expensive, but the drivers no longer accept cash, they just scan the ID cards. Therefore, I got to ride for free! A moment before the bus started, someone came up to me--believe it or not, it was a friend from the University of Arizona! It was so nice to chat on the ride to the city. Plus, he helped me figure out where to catch the shuttle on the way back. Then he was on his way to do some research at the Ottoman Archives in another part of town. On my own, I walked and walked and walked, enjoyed tea by the ferry boats, walked some more, enjoyed some street music, kept walking, and finally found my way back to the shuttle bus stop, caught the bus, and headed back to Sabancı. As you'll see from the photos below, it was a beautiful day--sunny, warm, and windy.
From Asia to Europe

The recently retired train terminal, Haydarpaşa

The pink building is Aya Sofya



The obligatory old and new juxtaposition

A church behind barbed wire









Sunday, July 21, 2013

Afternoon Stroll around Sabancı University

I took a walk around Sabancı University on a very quiet Sunday afternoon.
Above is Tolga and Funda's apartment building on campus. Here's what I saw on my walk:













And here's a peek at the industrial area which pretty much surrounds the campus:


A Year in Turkey! Getting there...

I'm here--it's real! Lucky me, it was a surprisingly easy trip here... and I don't seem to be keeling over from jetlag (knock on wood). The day before my flight, we stopped by the Ann Arbor Art Festival, where we got to spend the afternoon with Margaret and melt in the hot, hot, humidity. Margaret was helping her friend, Jenny, with her booth at the fair. (Congrats on your Award of Excellence, Jenny!!)



On Friday, we got to the Detroit airport nice and early, I checked in, and then we decided to hang out together, maybe get some coffee or tea, but the airport is designed to thwart such farewells--no cafes outside of security! Well then, I guess a photo in the lobby will do. It's been pointed out by Becky Schweig that our expressions are quite different, but I assure you, we were all teary at the real good-bye.



I'm staying with our friends Tolga, Funda and their little boy, Ege, who live on the Sabancı University campus (find the A on the lower right of the map). Three cheers to Tolga for driving more than four hours round trip to fetch me from the airport!!! Saturday we took a nice trip to Kadıköy to go to a Lego store (Ege got a set of Animal Hospital Duplos), coffee, and a view of the Marmara Sea.

More pictures and updates are coming soon! Feel free to post comments and ask questions, too...